Rome is a fabulous city with kids, and you are going to have a blast while you’re there. But it has to be said, that the buzzing city can be overwhelming. If you’ve booked Rome as a base for your dream Italy vacation and have 4+ days, you might be considering options for day trips or afternoon outings, outside the city- after you visit the Colosseum of course!

If that’s you- you are in the right place! I live halfway between Rome and Florence, and although this is home now, I still look at the country like a tourist, wowing at every castle, and opting for a “grande” gelato even though I could come back anytime! Most of my days are spent photographing tourists playing in the pool at their villa, enjoying a cooking class or strolling through Rome. When I’m not meeting my clients in wonderful locations, I’m out exploring myself. Today I’m sharing with you my favourite spots to escape the hustle and bustle of Rome, with kids and teenagers.

Before we get into that though, there are a few things to consider.

Public Transport: How to see the countryside outside Rome without a car

The public transport system in Italy is very good- when they’re not on strike! Fast trains connect all the big cities and regional trains connect those to the smaller ones. They’re all spacious, many have charging ports and if they’re going long distance- you’ll find a cafeteria. The bathrooms leave much to be desired for- but that’s public toilets everywhere, isn’t it?

Where there isn’t a train, there’s likely a bus- albeit less comfortable.

We have two major companies in Italy for trains; Trenitalia and Italo. TreniItalia operates the regional trains as well as the Frecciarossa fast trains. Italo only has fast trains. Like with airlines, it really depends on the day as to who is the cheapest- most importantly though- you’ll want to book in advance for fast trains.

If you are trying to avoid driving, I typically start on Google maps to look for public transport connections or Trainline. You can book tickets directly on the website of either Trenitalia or Italo.

Driving in the Italian alps — © *2024 Kirstie McConnell of Classico Portraits. Driving in Italy!*

Hiring a car: What is it like to drive outside Rome?

In Italy we drive on the right side of the road so if you’re coming from Australia like me, (or Singapore, Hong Kong, India, U.K. and so on) that’s the “other side”. If you’re coming from Europe, the U.S. or Canada though- you’re in luck since it’s the same for you.

Driving experiences in Italy vary a lot depending on the location. For example, despite now being a confident driver here in Umbria, I still will not drive in Puglia (my husband’s home region) where it seems that road rules are barely a guideline, or any big city. But I also come from a small town in Australia!

Speaking of road rules, keep in mind that road signs are of course in Italian, speed limits are in kilometres and many cities have ZTL (limited traffic zones) which you can only enter and leave during certain times, or sometimes not at all unless you’re a resident).

While reading all of this may have you reconsidering hiring a car, I do have a few tips to help you feel more confident in your Fiat 500!

Hire a car with a pickup point that is outside the city. Some places may offer to pick you up or, you can choose a pickup point that is near a train station or the airport if that suits your itinerary best. Just be sure to check their opening hours.
Opt for full insurance coverage. The peace of mind is worth it, plus it makes drop-off much faster.
Select the smallest car that is suitable for your travel group. Car parks are small (and often hard to find) in Italy, as are many streets. A smaller car is your friend here!
Only a few car models available for hire tend to have automatic transmission so if you’re not used to manual/stick, be sure to check the description.

Where to Visit? Timing, Travel Season and You

Rome is the capital of Italy and also the regional capital of Lazio. Despite being a relatively small area, Lazio shares a border with SIX of Italy’s 20 regions. Within two hours, you can arrive inside any of those neighbouring regions. So which direction should you go and is it necessary to cross into another region? The answer to that question comes down to three factors:

How long do you have
What time of year are you travelling, and
What do you and your family look for in a great vacation?

If you’re just escaping the heat of the city and want to leave after lunch and return before dinner, I would avoid hiring a car. Unless you use an app like Share Now, you’ll lose too much time during pick-up and drop-off. With that in mind, you’ll want to choose somewhere with a direct train connection to Rome. Thankfully, your options are many! In this case, you’re likely to cross into one of the other regions too which means more history and art museums, potentially different architecture, and my favourite reason to travel around Italy, new culinary experiences.

On the other hand, if you have the entire day free in our schedule and your family will enjoy a long day, perhaps a hire car is ideal for you. This will be especially worth it if you are a family that loves nature or, getting a bit off the tourist trail.

Summer is hot in Rome. If you need a break from the heat, your immediate thought might be to head to the beach. Not a bad idea, but, a shared one with everyone else in the city so if you’re looking for a break from the crowds too, your best option is likely to head to the hills. Here are some of my favourite spots if I was heading out of Rome for a day.

A young girl steps enjoying the Gardens of Bomarzo

Parco Dei Mostri

North of Rome, just before the Umbrian border, is a fascinating park below the hilltop village of Bormazo. It’ll take a bit more than an hour to drive there from Rome along the A1 highway which follows the Tiber River. When you arrive at Sacro Bosco (the official name of the park), there is a designated, free (not to be taken for granted) carpark. You’ll purchase an entrance ticket from the office and continue into the well-maintained garden.

In the garden you are greeted with amazing sculptures, many carved into rock. These are not like the sculptures you have seen in Rome’s fountains or at Villa Borghese. Instead, you will find enormous statues that seem scattered without any plan. They were created in the 16th century, and commissioned by Pier Francesco Orsini as a way to process his grief after losing his wife.

At some point the gardens became abandoned and it wasn’t until Salvador Dali completed a painting based on the park in the 1950’s, that it was restored.

I visited recently and I have to say, it was equally as fascinating for us adults as it was for the kids running around. Just 15 minutes off the highway, Parco Dei Mostri makes for a great stop on your way to Tuscany, or as part of a day-trip loop from Rome, to stretch your legs, have a picnic, and be amazed!

Not hiring a car but desperate to see this garden? You’ll need to catch a one-hour train to Orte, and then a 45-minute local bus to Bormazo and then walk about 35 minutes. If you can budget it, you might want to consider a private driver instead and combine this trip with a visit to Bagnoregio.

Civita di Bagnoregio

After Parco Dei Mostri, I’d recommend staying inside Lazio but continuing about 45 minutes north on the country roads to get to Civita di Bagnoregio, “the dying city”. Built on soft clay, the city has faced erosion since it was first settled by the Etruscans 2500 years ago, but in 1695, a huge earthquake caused the whole eastern section to collapse. Today, you can only access what remains of the town via a pedestrian bridge and no doubt your kids will have fun playing games as they cross the valley below.

Fun fact: for the last decade, tourism has increased so much that the footbridge toll is so profitable that the local council has stopped charging locals communal fees- the only town in the whole of Italy!

Like Sacro Bosco, you need a car to reach this impressive site. If you are keen to reach it by public transport, your best bet is to catch a train to Orvieto, and then the bus. Alternatively, you could arrange a private driver from Orvieto or Rome.

Orvieto

Standing at a viewpoint looking across the valley to Orvieto, my husband recently announced, “I think Orvieto is the most impressive town in all of Italy, and that means the world”. And I honestly can’t argue. Like Civita di Bagnoregio, it sits on top of a rock- only this one isn’t crumbling. And on top of this giant rock, surrounded by cute stone houses and shops, is the impressive cathedral- so big it can be seen for miles. The 13th-century mosaic facade glitters in the sun and the inside is equally as majestic. If your children have had enough churches for the trip, you are in the perfect place to cheer them up because Orvieto is also home to my favourite Gelateria in central Italy: Gelateria Il Gelato Di Pasqualetti.

After replenishing their sugar levels, head to the other side of town to St. Patrick’s well. It was built in the 16th century to ensure a constant water supply to the citizens in case of a siege. Armed with that information, I’m sure you can make the double spiral staircase a perfect location for playing medieval games if you have young company. If your children are a bit older, perhaps booking a ceramics workshop for them in town might be of interest.

Orvieto is just over the border into Umbria and can be easily reached directly from Rome on the train in about an hour. You then step out of the station and take the funicular up to the old town. You can reach Orvieto by car too. It’s just off the A1 and you can park at the bottom of the escalators which take you up through a tunnel created in the rock! Being so convenient to reach, I think it’s perfect for an afternoon trip from Rome. If you have more time, I strongly suggest combining your visit to Orvieto with a truffle hunt in Umbria. some companies will even organise transport.

I loved watching these two practising their rafting just down from Marmore Falls!

Marmore Falls

Not exactly on the way to the above three places, but I think totally worth the detour is Cascata delle Marmore. The world’s highest man-made falls were created by the Romans in 271 BC as part of an aqueduct system that is still in use today. The water is released at certain times of day depending on the time of year, so be sure to align your visit appropriately because it truly is spectacular. If you’re up for it, you can hike up to the top of the falls or simply stop in the shade on the bridge hoping to spot rafters! It’s completely free to visit although good luck finding “white “ (free) parking.

*Truffle Hunting* *is a great family activity available as a day trip from Rome © Kirstie McConnell of Classico Portraits*

Other options

The four recommendations above really are my top tips for a day out from Rome, but if you’re looking for something different you have many options. You could consider a trip to Trevi which isn’t far at all. Or jump on a fast train heading the other south and arrive in the even more hectic city of Naples- what better place for a pizza-making class than the home of pizza itself. There’s also the entire coastline of Lazio so if the idea of laying under an umbrella watching your family play in the calm sea brings a smile to your face- you are not short on options!

No matter where you choose, I have no doubt you’ll have an amazing time creating these lasting memories. I would love for you to relive these memories every day through beautiful photographs in your home. If that interests you, reach out. Let’s plan a custom photoshoot!

Hi, I’m Kirstie

Photographer and Australian expat living her best gelato life

Love of my husband (but mostly of cheese) brought me to Italy in 2020. He was desperate to be back with his Italian family. And honestly, what Aussie girl could pass up the chance to move to the land of pizza and gelato?! (Seeing a food theme here?)

My decade of photography experience was inspired by a trip of a lifetime. My grandparents took me on a trip to Europe when I was a teen, then gifted me an album so I’d never forget it. That album quickly became a staple of family visits and storytime.

When I moved to Italy, I was surprised how rare that type of printed keepsake is for the locals. It’s quite literally a foreign concept - tourists won’t find that type of session here.

It inspired me to recreate an experience for others as deeply meaningful to them as my grandparent’s infamous vacation album has been to me.

So that’s my mission with Classico Portraits: to provide the same timeless centrepieces for families like yours visiting Italy.

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The Best Family-Friendly Day Trip from Rome